How To Date A Watch
This is my most recent super score — a cool retro-style 14k white gold 1940s cocktail watch. How do I know it’s from the 1940s? It has a screwed balance wheel, which makes it post 1930. But it has no shock protection for the balance staff — most watches were made this way until the late ’40s.
Also, the design is very ’40s — square dial contrasted with a high curved crystal and rounded lugs with bezel set stones. But the giveaway are the service marks on the inside caseback. Whenever you take a watch in to get serviced, the watchmaker inscribes a series of letters and/or numbers on the inside caseback. These usually include the year of the service — so the next time you take it in for a cleaning or repair, they’ll have a better indication of what needs to be done.
There’s not total agreement on how often you need to take you watch in for a tune up. For a mechanical watch, most watch people would suggest every five to eight years.
The oldest service mark on this baby is from 1947. The most recent is from, like, 1983. It’s running like a champion though. I’ll get it cleaned eventually. Also, it cost $6.


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Hi Rhonda,
Love your blog and particularly the Borel cocktail watch. Do you sell the watches you talk about or are you a collector? And how did you learn the tricks for dating that watch to the 1940s? I run a small online store for vintage and fashion watches in London, UK. If you have any good book recommendations let me know. Also, we picked this up a couple of weekends ago and you might like it:
http://www.watchmego.co.uk/products/ladies-breitling-watch
Thanks,
Gerald
Most of the info I know about dating watches and jewellery comes from work I’ve done in wardrobe for TV and from lurking on watch sites like timezone.com (especially when it comes to stuff like watch movements). I’m still far from being an expert though.
I love your site and am glad to see someone giving vintage ladies watches their due. I sometimes sell watches when its time to cull the herd or if I’m super broke.
Hi Rhonda
Love your blog…I was wondering if you have anyone in particular in Toronto that you trust your vintage watches to. I just picked up a 1930’s art deco Bulova that should be serviced. It works, but runs fast, and probably hasn’t been cleaned in years.
Thanks
Thank you for the blog love. I like Shane Ede myself.